Process for Reducing Hair Damage Upon Treatment of Hair by Heat

ABSTRACT

A process for reducing hair damage upon treatment of hair by heat comprising the steps of providing a hair care composition comprising a heat-stable silicone material, applying said composition onto hair, providing a heat generating hair care appliance, and treating hair using said appliance; use and kit thereof.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a processfor reducing hair damage upon treatment of hair by heat comprising thesteps of providing a hair care composition comprising a heat-stablesilicone material, applying said composition onto hair, providing a heatgenerating hair care appliance, and treating hair using said appliance.According to second and third aspects, the invention relates to the usesof said composition and said heat-stable silicone material. According afourth aspect, the invention relates to a kit comprising said hair carecomposition and said appliance. Said processes are useful for treatinghair, such as drying and/or styling hair, by heat while protecting hairand/or reducing hair damage that may occur upon treatment of hair byheat.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Heat generating hair care appliances, such as hot air hair careappliances and hot surface hair care appliances, are commonly used fordrying and/or styling hair. Particularly, hot air hair care appliancesare primarily used in order to dry hair. Particularly, hot surface haircare appliances are primarily used in order to style hair. Suchappliances allow treating hair upon heat. The temperature may besuperior to 50° C., or even 100° C.

However, hair are sensitive to temperature and treating hair using heatgenerating hair care appliances may alter the structure of hair fibersand, therefore, may damage hair. Particularly, repeated treatments usinga heat generating hair care appliance at regular intervals increase therisk of damaging hair.

In order to prevent and/or reduce hair damage, the user may apply haircare compositions. It is known a wide range of various hair carecompositions, e.g. shampoo, hair-conditioning compositions, hairstylingcompositions. However, even if these compositions may reduce in someextent hair damage, these compositions are usually not suitable forreducing hair damage induced upon treatment by heat. In some cases, suchcompositions may even contribute to damaging hair, when applying inconjunction with a treatment of hair using a heat generating appliance,because they comprise components degrading under high temperature.

There is a continuous need, therefore, for providing process forreducing hair damage upon treatment of hair by heat.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a processfor reducing hair damage upon treatment of hair by heat comprising thesteps of:

-   -   providing a hair care composition comprising a heat-stable        silicone material and a cosmetically acceptable carrier;    -   applying onto hair a sufficient amount of hair care composition        for treating hair;    -   providing a heat generating hair care appliance;    -   treating hair using the heat generating hair care appliance for        a sufficient amount of time.

According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to the useof a hair care composition, according to the first aspect, forprotecting hair and reducing hair damage upon treatment of hair by heat.

According to a third aspect, the present invention relates to the use ofa heat-stable silicone material, according to the first aspect of theinvention, for preparing a heat-styling hair care composition.

According to a fourth aspect, the present invention relates to a kit forreducing hair damage upon treatment of hair by heat comprising;

-   -   a hair care composition, according to the first aspect,        comprising a heat-stable silicone material and a cosmetically        acceptable carrier;    -   a heat-generating hair care appliance, preferably a hot air hair        care appliance and/or a hot surface hair care appliance.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a processfor reducing hair damage upon treatment of hair by heat comprising thesteps of:

-   -   providing a hair care composition comprising a heat-stable        silicone material and a cosmetically acceptable carrier;    -   applying onto hair a sufficient amount of hair care composition        for treating hair;    -   providing a heat generating hair care appliance;    -   treating hair using the heat generating hair care appliance for        a sufficient amount of time.

The inventors have surprisingly found that applying a hair carecomposition comprising a heat-stable silicone material before treatinghair using a heat generating hair care appliance allows protecting hairagainst any damage that may occur upon treatment by heat. Indeed, heatgenerating hair care appliances, and particularly hot surface hair careappliances, may generate temperature above 50° C. or even 100° C. Suchhigh temperature may alter the structure of hair fibers and, therefore,damage hair. Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed thatheat-stable silicone materials, and hair care compositions comprisingsuch materials, are suitable for protecting hair and/or reducing hairdamage upon treatment by heat because they do not evaporate when subjectto high temperature and they do not also decompose and/or formby-products. It is believed, therefore, that the heat-stable siliconematerial—particularly the polydimethylsiloxane (P) describedbelow—remains of hair fibers after applying of the hair care compositionand limits the impact of the heat onto hair fibers.

The process, according to the present invention comprises the step ofproviding a hair care composition comprising a heat-stable siliconematerial and a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

As used herein, the expression “heat-stable silicone material” means asilicone material which is stable even at high temperatures. As usedherein, the expression “high temperature” means temperature up to 300°C., preferably temperature up to 280° C., more preferably temperature upto 250° C. As used herein, the expression “stable” means that thesilicone material does not decompose and/or does not form by-productsand/or does not evaporate when heated up to high temperature.Particularly, when a heat-stable silicone material is applied onto asubstrate, e.g. hair fibres, the expression “stable” means that thesilicone material remains on said substrate without evaporating.Heat-stability of silicone material may be accessed using theThermogravimetric analysis, particularly using the apparatus TG 209,manufactured from Netsch.

Preferably, the heat-silicone material is a heat-stablepolydimethylsiloxane.

More preferable, the heat-stable polysiloxane is a polydimethylsiloxane(P) having aminoalkyl groups and having an amine number of at least 0.1meq/g of polydimethylsiloxane (P), and comprising units of the formula I

R¹ _(a)R² _(b)SiO_((4-a-b)/2)  (I),

in which R¹ are optionally halogen-substituted alkyl radicals having1-40 carbon atoms, or are —OR or —OH radicals;

R are optionally halogen-substituted alkyl radicals having 1-40 carbonatoms;

R² are aminoalkyl radicals of the formula II

—R³—NR⁴R⁵  (II);

R³ are divalent hydrocarbon radicals having 1-40 carbon atoms;

R⁴ are monovalent hydrocarbon radicals having 1-40 carbon atoms or areH;

R⁵ is a radical of the formula III

—(R⁶—NR⁴)_(x)R⁴  (III);

R⁶ is a divalent radical of the formula IV

—(CR⁴R⁴—)_(y)  (IV);

x is 0 or a value from 1 to 40; y is 1 or 2; a is 0, 1, 2 or 3; b is 0,1, 2 or 3; and, a+b on average is from 1.5 to 2.5;

not more than 9 mol % of the radical R¹ being OH or OR.

The alkyl radicals R¹ and R may be linear, cyclic, branched, saturatedor unsaturated. The alkyl radicals R¹ and R preferably have 1-18 carbonatoms, in particular 1-6 carbon atoms, and the methyl radical or ethylradical is particularly preferred. Preferred halogen substituents arefluorine and chlorine. Particularly preferred radicals R¹ are the methylradical, methoxy radical, ethoxy radical or —OH.

The divalent hydrocarbon radicals R³ may be halogen-substituted, linear,cyclic, branched, aromatic, saturated or unsaturated. The radicals R³preferably have 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and alkylene radicals areparticularly preferred, in particular propylene. Preferred halogensubstituents are fluorine and chlorine.

The monovalent hydrocarbon radicals R⁴ may be halogen-substituted,linear, cyclic, branched, aromatic, saturated or unsaturated. Theradicals R⁴ preferably have 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and alkyl radicals areparticularly preferred. Preferred halogen substituents are fluorine andchlorine. Particularly preferred substituents R⁴ are methyl, ethyl,cyclohexyl and H.

In the polydimethylsiloxanes, b preferably has the value 0 or 1, and a+bpreferably has an average value of from 1.9 to 2.2. In thepolydimethylsiloxanes, x is preferably 0 or a value from 1 to 18, mostpreferably from 1 to 6.

Particularly preferred radicals R² are —CH₂N(R⁴)₂, —(CH₂)₃N(R⁴)₂ and—(CH₂)₃N(R⁴)(CH₂)₂N(R⁴)₂.

The polydimethylsiloxane (P) is composed of at least 3, in particular atleast 10, units of the general formula (I).

The ratio of a to b is chosen so that the polydimethylsiloxane (P) hasan amine number of at least 0.1 meq/g of polydimethylsiloxane (P),preferably at least 0.6 meq/g of polydimethylsiloxane (P). The aminenumber of the polydimethylsiloxane (P) is preferably not more than 7meq/g of polydimethylsiloxane (P).

The viscosity of the polydimethylsiloxane (P) is preferably from 1 to100,000 mPa·s, in particular from 10 to 10,000 mPa·s, at 25° C..

Said composition may comprise from 0.001% to 50%, preferably from 0.01%to 30%, more preferably from 0.1% to 20%, still more preferably from0.1% to 5%, polydimethylsiloxane (P) by total weight of the hairtreating composition.

The polydimethylsiloxanes (P) and emulsions or dispersions thereof aredescribed in US 2006/0041026 A1 which is hereby incorporated byreference. An oil-in-water emulsion of polydimethylsiloxanes (P)suitable for the invention is sold under the trademark Wacker® HC 303 VPby Wacker-Chemie AG (Germany).

In a preferred embodiment, the composition is an emulsion and contains aMQ silicone resin. The MQ silicone resin preferably contains at least 80mol %, preferably at least 95 mol %, of units of the general formulae(V) and (VI):

R⁷ ₃SiO_(1/2)  (V),

SiO_(4/2)  (VI),

in which R⁷ are optionally halogen-substituted hydrocarbon radicalshaving 1-40 carbon atoms or H, —OR or —OH radicals, and the ratio of theunits of the general formulae (V) and (VI) is from 0.5 to 2.0,preferably from 0.5 to 1.5, and not more than 3% by weight, preferablynot more than 2.5% by weight, of the radicals R⁷ are —OR and —OH.

The remaining units of the MQ silicone resin are preferably units of thegeneral formulae (VII) and (VIII):

R⁷ ₂SiO_(2/2)  (VII),

R⁷SiO_(3/2)  (VIII),

The monovalent hydrocarbon radicals R⁷ may be halogen-substituted,linear, cyclic, branched, aromatic, saturated or unsaturated. Theradicals R⁷ preferably have 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and alkyl radicals andphenyl radicals are particularly preferred. Further halogen substituentsare fluorine and chlorine. Particularly preferred substituents R⁷ aremethyl, ethyl, phenyl and H. The emulsions preferably contain from 1 to200 parts by weight, particularly preferably from 5 to 100 parts byweight, of MQ silicone resin.

The hair care composition may further comprise a protonating agent. Theprotonating agent may be a monoprotic or polyprotic acid, water-solubleor water-insoluble acid, and/or an organic or inorganic acid.Preferably, the protonating agent is selected from formic acid, aceticacid, sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, citric acid or mixtures thereof.Preferably, the protonating agent is added in an amount of from 0.05 to2 mol of acidic proton per mole of basic nitrogen atom of the radicalsR².

The above polydimethylsiloxane (P) in combination with the protonatingagent can advantageously be used for manufacturing a cosmeticcomposition for treating human hair.

By treating hair with said polydimethylsiloxane (P) together with theprotonating agent the treated hair becomes water repellent. This allowsto use said polydimethylsiloxane (P) and the protonating agent forreducing the drying time of human hair. This also allows using saidpolydimethylsiloxane (P) and the protonating agent, and hair carecompositions comprising these components, for reducing the drying timeof human hair.

Providing a hair care composition allowing the reduction of the dryingtime is particularly useful in processes according to the presentinvention. Indeed, such composition allows the reduction of the timeneeded when treating hair using the heat generating hair care applianceand, therefore, it contributes further to the protection of hair and/orreduction of hair damage upon treatment of hair by heat.

The hair care composition also comprises a cosmetically acceptablecarrier. The cosmetically acceptable carrier may be any carrier suitablefor formulating the heat-stable silicone material into a compositionbeing suitable for application onto hair. The cosmetically acceptablecarrier may be selected from either an aqueous medium or anaqueous-alcoholic medium. When the carrier is an aqueous-alcoholiccarrier, this carrier comprises water and an alcohol. When the carrieris an aqueous carrier, this carrier consists essentially of water and issubstantially free of alcohol. Said composition may comprise from 0.1%to 99%, preferably from 1% to 99%, more preferably from 10% to 99%,still more preferably from 30% to 99%, water by weight of the totalcomposition.

The hair care composition may be in the form of an emulsion, a solution,a dispersion, or any other form suitable for application onto hair. Whenbeing in the form of an emulsion, said emulsion may be a water-in-oilemulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, or a multiple emulsion.

The hair care composition may be a leave-in composition or a rinse-offcomposition.

The hair care composition may be selected from a shampoo; ahair-conditioning composition; a hairstyling composition; orcombinations thereof. When being a hairstyling composition, saidcomposition may be a gel composition; a spraygel composition, optionallydispensed using a mechanical spray device and/or at least onepropellant; a non-aerosol hairspray, optionally dispensed using asuitable mechanically operated spraying device; a foamable composition,optionally dispensed using devices for foaming; hair wax composition;hair lotion composition; hair cream composition; or combinationsthereof.

The hair care composition may be applied on wet hair and/or on dry hair.

The hair care composition may further comprise at least one cosmetichair treatment agent selected from hairstyling polymers,hair-conditioning agents, hair-cleaning agents, or mixtures thereof.

The hair care composition may comprise any suitable and conventionalhair styling polymers. Particularly, the hairstyling polymer may beselected from nonionic hair styling polymer, anionic hair stylingpolymer, zwitterionic and/or amphoretic hairstyling polymer, cationichair styling polymer, or mixtures thereof. Suitable hairstyling polymersmay be found in the CTFA International Cosmetics Ingredient Dictionaryand Handbook, “Hair Fixatives”, 12^(th) edition (2008). Suitablehairstyling polymers are, for example, those materials disclosed frompage 12, line 5 to page 19, line 1 of the European patent application08151246.9 filed on 11 Feb. 2008, which is incorporated herewith byreference.

The hair care composition may comprise from 0.01% to 10% by weight,preferably from 0.1% to 8%, more preferably from 0.1% to 5%, hairstylingpolymer by total weight of the composition.

Nonionic hairstyling polymers may be natural or synthetic polymers.Suitable nonionic hair styling polymers may be polymers obtained frompolymerization of at least one type of monomers selected fromvinylpyrrolidone; vinylcaprolactam; vinyl esters; vinyl alcohol; vinylacetate; (meth)acrylamide, and/or its derivatives; (meth)acrylic acid,its salts, and/or its derivatives; propylene and/or ethylene glycolacid; crotonic acid; or mixtures thereof. For example, such polymers areavailable under the tradenames Luviskol® or Luviset Clear®.

Suitable anionic hairstyling polymers may be selected from acrylicacid/alkyl acrylate/N-alkylacrylamide terpolymer; vinyl acetate/crotonicacid copolymer; C1-C5-alkyl acrylate/(meth)acrylic acid copolymer;sodium polystyrenesulfonate; vinyl acetate/crotonic acid/vinyl alkanoatecopolymer; vinyl acetate/crotonic acid/vinyl neodecanoate copolymer;aminomethylpropanol acrylate copolymer; vinylpyrrolidone/(meth)acryliccopolymer; methyl vinyl ether/maleic monoalkyl esters copolymer;aminomethylpropanol salts of allyl methacrylate/(meth)acrylatecopolymer; ethyl acrylate/methacrylic acid copolymer; vinylacetate/mono-n-butyl maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymer;octylacrylamid/(meth)acrylic acid copolymer; polyesters of diglycol,cyclohexanedimethanol, isophthalic acid and sulfoisophthalic acid; ormixtures thereof.

Suitable zwitterionic or amphoteric hairstyling polymers may be selectedfrom alkylacrylamide/alkylaminoalkyl methacrylate/(meth)acrylic acidcopolymers; copolymers which are formed from at least one first monomertype which has quaternary amine groups, and at least one second monomertype which has acid groups; copolymers of fatty alcohol acrylates, ofalkylamine oxide methacrylate and at least one monomer chosen fromacrylic acid and methacrylic acid; methacryloylethylbetaine/methacrylicacid and/or esters copolymers; polyquaternium-47; polyquaternium-43;oligomers or polymers, preparable from quaternary croton betaines orquaternary croton betaine esters; or mixtures thereof.

Suitable cationic hairstyling polymers may be selected from homopolymersor copolymers, where the quaternary nitrogen groups are present eitherin the polymer chain or as substituent on one or more of the monomers.The monomers containing ammonium groups may be copolymerized withnoncationic monomers. Suitable cationic monomers may be unsaturated,free-radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationicgroup, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers, such as, forexample, trialkylmeth-acryloxyalkylammonium,trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternaryvinylammonium monomers with cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups,such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g.alkylvinylimidazolium, alkylvinyl-pyridinium, or alkylvinylpyrrolidonesalts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkylgroups, such as, for example, C1- to C7-alkyl groups, particularlypreferably C1- to C3-alkyl groups. Suitable noncationic monomers may beselected from (meth)acrylamide, derivatives thereof; acrylate, itsderivative thereof; vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam,vinyl-pyrrolidone, vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol orethylene glycol. For example, suitable cationic hairstyling polymers areavailable under the tradenames Gafquat® 755 N; Gafquat® 734; Gafquat® HS100; Luviquat® HM 550; Merquat® Plus 3300; Gaffix® VC 713; Aquaflex® SF40.

Cationic hairstyling polymers may also be derived from natural polymers,preferably natural polymers selected from cationic derivativespolysaccharides such as cellulose, starch and/or guar; chitosan, itssalts, and/or its derivatives; or mixtures thereof. For example,suitable conventional polymers are polyquaternium-4; polyquaternium-10;polyquaternium-24; guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride; chitosoniumpyrrolidonecarboxylate.

The hair care composition may further comprise any suitable andconventional hair-conditioning agents. The term “hair conditioningagent” means herewith any cosmetically acceptable compound having acosmetic effect on hair, such as providing gloss to hair, making hairmore manageable, improving hair touch, improving combability and/orgiving hair more volume. Suitable hair-conditioning agents may be foundin the CTFA International Cosmetics Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook,“Hair conditioning agents”, 12^(th) edition (2008). Hair conditioningagent may be selected from cationic surfactant, nonionic surfactant,silicone-conditioning agent, organic oily conditioning agent, ormixtures thereof. Suitable hair-conditioning agents are, for example,those materials disclosed from page 19, line 3 to page 27, line 33 ofthe European patent application 08151246.9 filed on 11 Feb. 2008, whichis incorporated herewith by reference.

Suitable cationic surfactants contain preferably amino or quaternaryammonium moieties. For example, cationic surfactant may be surfactantsof formula

[NR4,R5,R6,R7]⁺.X⁻

wherein R4 to R7 are independently an aliphatic group of from 1 to 22carbon atoms; an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido,hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms;and X⁻ is a salt-forming anion. Suitable cationic surfactants may beselected from cetyl trimethyl ammonium salts; behenyl trimethyl ammoniumsalts; dimethyl ditallow ammonium salts; stearyl amidopropyldimethylamine; (di)esterquats; quaternium 8, 14, 15, 18, 22, 24, 26, 27,30, 33, 37, 53, 60, 61, 72, 78, 80, 81, 82, 83, 84, and/or 91; ormixtures thereof.

Suitable nonionic surfactants may be surfactants having a HLB of lessthan 8. Suitable nonionic surfactants may be selected from glycerylesters; sugar esters; alkylpolyglucoside ethers; oleyl- orisostearylpolyglucoside; polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monostearate; ormixtures thereof.

Suitable silicone conditioning agents may be volatile or nonvolatile,and/or soluble or insoluble silicones. For example, suitable siliconeconditioning agents are available under the tradenames SF 1075 methylphenyl fluid (Electric company); DC200 Fluid, DC244, DC245, DC345, DC556Cosmetic Grade Fluid, DC1248 (Dow Coming).

Suitable organic oily conditioning agents may be nonvolatile, waterinsoluble, organic, oil or fat. Organic oily conditioning agents may beselected from hydrocarbon oils and fatty esters.

Suitable fatty alcohols may be nonvolatile low melting point fattyalcohol.

A variety of additional optional ingredients may be incorporated intothe composition of the present invention. Non-limiting examples of theseadditional ingredients may be selected from preservatives; antioxidants;sequestering agents; solvents; fragrances & perfumes; fillers; screeningagents; odor absorbers; coloring materials; lipid vesicles; detersivesurfactants; thickening agents and suspending agents; viscositymodifiers; pearlescent aids; UV-filters and sunscreens; agents forcombating free radicals; polyvinyl alcohol; pH adjusting agents; salts;coloring agents; polymer plasticizing agents; direct dyes; or mixturesthereof.

The hair care composition may further comprise at least one direct hairdyes. Said composition may comprise from 0.01% to 15%, preferably from0.1% to 10% , more preferably from 0.5% to 8%, direct hair dyes byweight of the total composition.

The hair care composition may further comprise at least oneviscosity-modifying substance. Said composition may comprise from 0.01%to 20%, preferably from 0.05% to 10%, more preferably from 0.1% to 5%,viscosity-modifying substance by weight of the total composition.

The hair care composition may further comprise at least one emulsifierand/or surfactant not being a hair conditioning agent. Said emulsifierand/or surfactant may be selected from nonionic surfactants; anionicsurfactants; amphoretic surfactants; or mixtures thereof. Saidcomposition may comprise from 0.01% to 50%, preferably from 0.05% to20%, more preferably from 0.1% to 15%, emulsifier and/or surfactant byweight of the total composition.

The hair care composition may further comprise at least one pigment. Thepigment may be selected from natural pigments; synthetic pigments; ormixture thereof. The pigments may be selected from organic pigment,inorganic pigment; or mixtures thereof. The pigments may be selectedfrom colored pigments; pearlescent pigments; or mixtures thereof. Saidcomposition may comprise from 0.01% to 25%, preferably from 5% to 15%,pigment present in the product mass in undissolved form by weight of thetotal composition.

The hair care composition may further comprise at least one particulatesubstance. Particulate substance may be selected from silica; silicates;aluminates; clay earths; mica; insoluble salts, particularly insolubleinorganic metal salts; metal oxides; minerals; insoluble polymerparticles; or mixtures thereof. Said hair care composition may comprisefrom 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.05% to 5%, of at least oneparticulate substance by weight of the total composition.

The hair care composition may further comprise at least onephotoprotective substance. Said composition may comprise from 0.01% to10%, preferably from 0.1% to 5%, more preferably from 0.2% to 2%,photoprotective substance by weight of the total composition.

The hair care composition may further comprise at least onepreservative. Said composition may comprise from 0.01% to 5% by weight,more preferably from 0.05% to 1%, of at least one preservative by weightof the total composition.

The hair care composition may have a viscosity at 25° C. from 0.1 mPa·sto 1,000,000 mPas, preferably from 1 mPa·s to 80,000 mPa·s, morepreferably from 5 mPa·s to 3,500 mPa·s. The viscosity may be measured—ifnot otherwise defined—by HAAKE Rotation Viscometer VT 550 withcooling/heating vessel and sensor systems according to DIN 53019(MV-DIN, SV-DIN), shear rate is 12.9 s⁻¹.

The hair care composition may have a pH value from 2.0 to 12.0,preferably from 3.0 to 9.0, more preferably from 4.5 to 7.5. In order toachieve a specific pH, said composition may further comprise analkalizing agent and/or an agent for adjusting the pH value.

In a preferred embodiment, the process comprises the steps of providingand applying a hair care composition comprising at least one heat stablesilicone material, at least one volatile component above 100° C. and acosmetically acceptable carrier. Preferably, said composition consistsessentially of at least one heat stable silicone material, at least onevolatile component above 100° C. and a cosmetically acceptable carrier.More preferably, said composition is substantially free of heat-unstablecomponent.

As used herein “volatile above 100° C.” means that the componentevaporates above 100° C. and that, when applied onto a substrate such ashair fibers, the component leaves no residue and/or by-products ontosaid substrate. Common volatile components above 100° C. are water andalcohols.

As used herein, the expression “heat-unstable” means that a componentdoes not evaporate fully when subject to high temperatures and, whenapplied onto a substrate such as hair, leaves by-products that may alterthe structure of hair fibers and/or induce hair damage when heated up athigh temperatures.

The process, according to the present invention, also comprises the stepof applying onto hair a sufficient amount of hair care composition fortreating hair. As used herein, the expression “sufficient amount of haircare composition for treating hair” means preferably the applicationfrom 0.01 g to 5 g of hair care composition for 1 g of hair. Thecomposition may be applied onto hair by dispending it directly onto hairand then rubbing hair to distribute this composition evenly onto hair.Alternatively, the composition may be dispensed into the hand palmand/or onto any suitable substrate and then rubbing hair with the handand/or said substrate to apply and distribute this composition evenlyonto hair.

The process, according to the present invention, also comprises thesteps of providing a heat generating hair care appliance and thentreating hair using this appliance for a sufficient amount of time. Asused herein, the expression “sufficient amount of time” means preferablyfrom 1 min to 2 h, more preferably from 1 min to 1 h, still morepreferably from 1 min to 20 min

Heat generating hair care appliances fall into two major categories,i.e. appliances to be used typically on wet hair and appliances to beused typically on dry hair.

Appliances to be used preferably on wet hair are referred herein as to“hot air hair care appliances”. For example, hot air hair careappliances may be hair dryers and/or hot air hair stylers. A hair dryer,for example, directs hot air towards the hair, as to dry it. The air istypically directed through appropriate orifices and accelerated by afan. The hair may be heated by a resistive heater. Such hair dryers mayalso take the form of drying hoods, where a major portion of the head iscovered by some form of hood. Hairdryer distances are typically down to10 cm. Hot air stylers direct hot air through some sort of attachmentfor combing or otherwise treating the hair. A hot air hair styler istypically used such that the respective appliance touches the hair andhence the styler itself is used in the vicinity of the hair (for exampleat a distance of 5 or 10 or 20 centimetres). A conventional hot airdryer is used in a somewhat larger distance to the hair (for example ata distance of 20 or 30 or 40 centimetres) and often is used with theaide of a comb or a brush. The devices of the first group deliver hotair at a temperature from 50 to about 100° C. Some devices may deliverhot air temperatures up to 130° C., but no common device produces airhotter than 150° C.

Appliances to be used typically on dry hair are referred herein as to“hot surface hair care appliances”. For examples, hot surface hair careappliances may be hair curlers and hair straighteners. They alsotypically rely on resistive heating, but heat is not transported throughhot air, but by direct contact with the hair. The transfer is often madeby bringing the hair in contact with some metal or ceramic surface ofthe appliance. These devices are not or at least not primarily used todry the hair. Rather are they used to change the hair style, typicallyeither to create curls or to straighten hair. The surfaces meant forhair contact of these devices typically reach temperatures from 130° C.to 250° C. Most devices have hair contact surfaces with temperaturesfrom 200° C. to 230° C.

U.S. Pat. No. 5,612,849 and U.S. Pat. No. 6,191,930 disclose a heatgenerating hair care appliance in the form of a hot air hair careappliance. The respective devices are typically referred to as hairdryers or blow dryers. US D383245 discloses another heat generating haircare appliance in the form of a hot air hair care appliance. Therespective devices are typically referred to as hot air stylers or hairstylers. US 2008/0196739 discloses a heat generating hair care appliancein the form of a hot surface hair care appliance. The respective deviceis typically referred to as a hair straightener.

In a preferred embodiment, the process comprises the steps of providinga heat generating hair care appliance being a hot air hair careappliance, and then treating hair at a temperature ranging from 20° C.to 150° C. using said appliance for a sufficient amount of time fordrying and/or styling hair. The hot air hair care appliance ispreferably selected from hair dryer and/or hot air hair styler. Whensaid appliance is a hair dryer, hair are preferably treated at atemperature ranging from 20° C. to 110° C. When said appliance is a hotair hair styler, hair are preferably treated at a temperature rangingfrom 50° C. to 150° C.

In another preferred embodiment, the process comprises the steps ofproviding a heat generating hair care appliance being a hot surface haircare appliance, and then treating hair at a temperature ranging from 90°C. to 250° C. using said appliance for a sufficient amount of time fordrying and/or styling hair. The hot surface hair care appliance ispreferably selected from hair curlers and hair straigtheners. When saidappliance is a hair curler, hair are preferably treated at a temperatureranging from 90° C. to 200° C. When said appliance is a hairstraigthener, hair are preferably treated at a temperature ranging from90° C. to 250° C.

In an alternative embodiment, the process comprises the steps ofproviding a heat generating at least two hair care appliances being ahot air hair care appliance and a hot surface hair care appliance, andthen treating successively hair using the hot air hair care applianceand then the hot surface hair care appliance.

The hair care composition is preferably applied onto hair beforetreating hair using said appliance. This composition is applied ontohair preferably from 1 min to 2 h, more preferably from 1 min to 1 h,still more preferably from 1 min to 20 min, before treating hair usingsaid appliance.

The process, according to the present invention, may further comprisethe step of wetting hair before, during and/or after applying the haircare composition onto hair. This step may be performed using an aqueouscomposition and/or water.

The process, according to the present invention, may also furthercomprise the step of rinsing off the hair care composition comprisingthe heat-stable silicone material. It may be used water and/or anysuitable rinsing composition. Rinsing-off the hair care composition ispreferred when said composition is a shampoo and/or a rinse-offhair-conditioning composition. This step of rinsing off the hair carecomposition is preferably performed from 30 sec to 20 min, morepreferably from 30 sec to 5 min after applying the hair carecomposition. This step of rinsing off the hair care composition is alsopreferably performed before treating hair using the heat generating haircare appliance.

The process, according to the present invention, may also furthercomprise the step of drying hair by toweling hair and/or by pressinghair with hands. This step may be useful to remove the excess of water.The step is preferably conducted after applying the hair carecomposition onto hair and before treating hair using a heat generatinghair care appliance.

The process, according to the present invention, may also furthercomprise the step of combing and/or brushing hair. This step may beperformed before and/or after treating hair using a heat generating haircare appliance.

In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a processfor reducing hair damage upon treatment of hair by heat comprising thesteps of:

-   -   providing a hair care composition comprising a heat-stable        polydimethylsiloxane (P);    -   applying from 0.01 g to 5 g/g hair of said composition onto        hair;    -   optionally, wetting hair with an aqueous composition before,        during and/or after applying said hair care composition onto        hair;    -   optionally, rinsing off said hair care composition;    -   optionally drying hair by toweling and/or pressing hair with        hands in order to remove the excess of water;    -   providing two heat generating hair care appliances being a hot        air hair care appliance and a hot surface hair care appliance;    -   treating hair using the hot air hair care appliance from lmin to        20 min for substantially drying hair;    -   then treating hair using the hot surface hair care appliance        from lmin to 20 min for styling hair;    -   optionally, combing and/or brushing hair before, during and/or        after treating hair with the heat generating hair care        appliances.

According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to the useof a hair care composition, as defined above, for protecting hair andreducing hair damage upon treatment of hair by heat. In a preferredembodiment, the present invention relates to the use of said hair carecomposition for protecting hair and reducing hair damage upon treatmentof hair by hot air hair care surface. In another embodiment, the presentinvention relates to the use of said hair care composition forprotecting hair and reducing hair damage upon treatment of hair by hotsurface hair care surface.

It is indeed particularly advantageous using a hair care compositioncomprising a heat-stable silicone material—e.g. a heat-stablepolydimethylsiloxane such as polydimethylsiloxane (P) of the typepresent in the material Wacker HC 303—in order to protect hair againsthair treatments by heat and in order to reduce, or even prevent, hairdamages induced by hair treatments by heat. Heat-stable siliconematerials are useful for protecting hair and/or reducing hair damageupon treatment of hair by heat as it is believed that thesematerials—particularly polydimethylsiloxane (P) described below—remainof hair fibers after applying of the hair care composition incorporatingthem and limit the impact of the heat onto hair fibers.

According to a third aspect, the present invention relates to the use ofa heat-stable silicone material, as defined above, for preparing aheat-stable hair care composition. As used herein, the expression“heat-stable hair care composition” means that the hair care compositioncomprises at least one component being heat stable, i.e. at least onecomponent which does not decompose and/or does not form by-productsand/or doe not evaporate when heated up to high temperatures, typicallyup to 300° C.

In contrast, the heat-stable hair care composition may comprise furthercomponents not being heat stable. Typically, said composition maycomprise components that would evaporate when subject to hightemperatures, preferably when subjected to a temperature of 100° C. orabove. One common component evaporating when subjected to a temperatureof 100° C. or above is water.

According to a fourth aspect, the present invention relates a kit forreducing hair damage upon treatment of hair by heat comprising:

-   -   a hair care composition—according to the first aspect of the        invention—comprising a heat-stable silicone material and a        cosmetically acceptable carrier;    -   a heat-generating hair care appliance—according to the first        aspect of the invention—, preferably a hot air hair care        appliance and/or a hot surface hair care appliance.

The following examples further describe and demonstrate the preferredembodiments within the scope of the present invention. The examples aregiven solely for the purpose of illustration, and are not to beconstrued as limitations of the present invention since many variationsthereof are possible without departing from its scope.

All weights provided in these examples are weights of the commerciallyavailable materials, including active(s) and/or solvent and/orby-products.

Evaluation of the function stability of the silicone material over thewhole range of styling up to 300° C.

The thermogravimetric analysis—designated thereafter as “TGA”—wasconducted using the device TG 209 manufactured by Netsch.

The composition to be tested comprised 20% Wacker HC 303 material(emulsion comprising polydimethylsiloxane (P)) and water (qsp).Specifically, the composition comprised 5% (active) polydimethylsiloxane(P).

A sample of the composition to be tested was loaded onto the apparatus.

The sample was evaporated with a thermo balance in an Al₂O₃ meltingpoint in the temperature range from 20° C. to 300° C. with a heatingrate of 20K/min including two isothermal steps at 250° C. and 300° C.each for 10 min.

The residues in the temperature range from 100° C. to 300° C. inThermogravimetric analysis is shown in the table below.

Residues in percentage 100° C. 150° C. 170° C. 200° C. 250° C. 300° C.Sample 57 6 5 5 5 5

The above data shows that 94% of the volatile substances, mainly water,in the composition tested were already evaporated at 150° C. and astabile mass of 5% was left in the following temperature steps. Thesedata demonstrated that the remaining substance after heating the sampleup to 300° C. is polydimethylsiloxane (P) of Wacker HC303, and that saidpolymethylsiloxane is stable at high temperature, i.e. does notdecompose and/or does not form by-products and/or does not evaporatewhen heated up to high temperature.

Such data demonstrate the suitability of application ofpolydimethylsiloxane (P) on hair before treatment of hair by heat,because of its stability at high temperature.

Compositions Suitable for Use in the Processes According to the PresentInvention

All compositions exemplified below comprise amino-functionalorganopolysiloxanes prepared as follows:

The amino-functional organopolysiloxanes used are as follows:

-   -   Amine Oil 1: Amine Oil 1 has a viscosity of about 1000 mm²/s at        25° C., the functional radicals are —CH₂)₃NH(CH₂)₂NH₂ and has an        amine number of 0.6 meq/g of organo-polysiloxane. In addition,        the organopolysiloxane contains about 0.75 mol % of reactive        OMe/OH radicals as terminal groups.    -   Amine Oil 2: Amine Oil 2 has a viscosity of about 1000 mm²/s at        25° C., the functional radicals are —CH₂)₃NH(CH₂)₂NH₂ and has an        amine number of 0.6 meq/g of organopolysiloxane. The terminal        groups in this case are Me₃SiO radicals.    -   Amine Oil 3: Amine oil 3 has a viscosity of about 230 mm²/s at        25° C., the functional radicals are —(CH₂)₃NH(CH₂)₂NH₂, and an        amine number of 2.6 meq/g of organopolysiloxane. The terminal        groups are likewise Me₃SiO radicals. Said amino-functional        organopolysiloxanes are formulated as emulsions as follows:    -   Emulsion A: 16.g of Amine Oil 1 are added to 6 g of water, 6 g        of ethylene glycol monobutyl ether and 0.17 g of acetic acid at        room temperature while stirring, and the remaining water to a        total weight of 100 g is then also incorporated. A milky opaque        emulsion is obtained. The emulsion is added at room temperature        as last ingredient to the active solution/dispersion of the        following examples.    -   Emulsion B: 16.g of a mixture of 11.1 g of Amine Oil 2 and 4.9 g        of MQ resin are added to 6 g of water, 6 g of ethylene glycol        monobutyl ether and 0.17 g of acetic acid at room temperature        while stirring, and the remaining water to a total weight of 100        g is then also incorporated. A milky opaque emulsion is        obtained. The emulsion is added at room temperature as last        ingredient to the active solution/dispersion of the following        examples.    -   Emulsion C: 16.g of a mixture of 11.1 g of Amine Oil 3 and 4.9 g        of MQ resin are added to 6 g of water and 0.17 g of acetic acid        at room temperature while stirring, and the remaining water to a        total weight of 100 g is then also incorporated. A milky opaque        emulsion is obtained. The emulsion is added at room temperature        as last ingredient to the active solution/dispersion of the        following examples.

The hair care compositions described hereafter and comprising eitheremulsion A, emulsion B or emulsion C, are prepared using conventionalmixing methods. These formulations are suitable for use in the processesaccording to the present invention.

Liquid gel comprising 2.00 g Emulsion A; 1.00 g Luviset® Clear, 1.50 gSurfactant 193, 0.30 g Carbomer, 0.30 g AMP 95%, 0.20 g Emulgin L, 0.15g perfume, 0.40 g Natrosol® G, 16.50 g Ethanol, qsp 100.00 g water withwater.

Rapid Drying Gel comprising 2.90 g Emulsion B, 1.00 g Luviset® Clear,1.80 g Polyvinylpyrrolidone K 90; 1.00 g Direct dye; 1.50 g Surfactant193; 1.00 g Synthalen® W 2000; 0.30 g AMP 95%; 0.30 g PEG-25 PABA(Uvinul® P 25); 0.15 g Panthenol; 0.30 g Perfume; 34.20 g Ethanol; 0.10g Keratin hydrolysate; qsp 100.00 g with water.

Pump-setting foam comprising 1.20 g Emulsion C, 1.80 g Luviset® Clear,1.90 g Direct dye, 0.40 g Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, 0.10 gRosemary leaf extract (Extrapon® Rosemary), 8.90 g ethanol, 0.10 gExtrapon® seven herbs-extract, 0.10 g Panthenyl ethyl ether, 0.15 gPerfume, qsp 100.00 g with water. The composition is packaged in apackaging with mechanically operated pump foaming device.

Aerosol-setting foam-extra strong hold comprising 1.20 g Emulsion A,2.10 g Luviset® Clear, 0.60 g Vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymer,0.50 g Polyquaternium-7, 4.00 g Butane, 4.00 g Propane, 8.90 g Ethanol510, 0.40 g PEG-25 PABA, 0.20 g Panthenol, 0.20 g Perfume, 0.20 gLaureth-4, 0.07 g C9-C11 Pareth-8, qsp 10.00 g with water. Thecomposition is bottled in an aerosol can with foaming head.

Setting spray comprising 2.20 g Emulsion B, 1.00 g Luviset® Clear, 0.65g Octylacrylamide/Acrylates/Butylaminoethylmethacrylate Copolymer(Amphomer®), 0.20 g Celquat® L200, 28.5 g Ethanol, 0.60 gAminomethylpropanol 95%, 0.25 g Perfume, 0.20 g Cetyltrimethylammoniumchloride, qsp 60.00 g water. The composition is bottled in a packagingwith pump spray device.

Rinse out Conditioner comprising 3.00 g Emulsion A, 1.00 gcetyltrimethyl ammonium chloride, 1.00 g polymethylphenyl siloxane, 0.40g phenoxy ethanol, 0.20 g PHB-methylester, 1.00 g Dow Corning 949Cationic Emulsion®, 5.00 g isododecane, 0.40 g perfume oil, qsp 100.00 gWater.

Leave in Conditioner comprising 1.80 g Emulsion C, 0.10 g vitamineE-acetate, 0.50 g polymethylphenyl siloxane, 10.00 g propylene glycol,0.50 g behenyl trimethylammonium chloride, 0.05 g sodium chloride, 0.30g d-panthenol, 0.30 g PHB-propylester, 2.00 g isododecane, 0.20 gperfume oil, qsp 100.00 g water.

Shampoo comprising 0.20 g Jaguar C-162, 40.00 g sodium laureth sulfate(LES 28%), 5.00 g Cocamidopropyl betaine, 2.00 g Dow Corning 200Fluid/350 CS, 0.15 g Perfume, 6.00 g Emulsion C, qsp 100.00 g Water

The tradenames/raw materials used in the examples are Abilquat® 3270(Quaternium-80, 50% in propylene glycol) from Goldschmidt; Aculyn® 48(PEG-150/stearyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer, 19% in water) from Rohm andHaas; AMP 95% (aminomethylpropanol, 95% aqueous solution); Amphomer®(octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer);Aristoflex® AVC (Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer);Aquaflex® FX-64 (isobutylene/ethylmaleimide/hydroxyethylmaleimidecopolymer, 40% strength in water/ethanol) from ISP; Aquaflex® SF 40(VP/vinyl caprolactam//DMAPA acrylates copolymer, 40% in ethanol) fromISP; Advantage® S (vinyl caprolactam/VP/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylatecopolymer); Carbomer—Carbopol (acrylic acid homopolmer); Celquat® L200(copolymer of hydroxyethylcellulose and diallyldimethylammoniumchloride; Polyquaternium-4); GENAMIN CTAC 50 (cetrimonium chloride;cetyltrimethylammonium chloride); Copolymer 845(VP/Ddimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer, 20% in water) from ISP;Dehydol® LS 4 (Lauryl alcohol tetraoxyethylen ether); Dekaben® LMB(iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 10% strength in butylene glycol); Dekaben®LMP (Phenoxyethanol and iodopropynyl butylcarbamate); Diaformer Z-711(acrylates/lauryl acrylate/stearyl acrylate/ethylamine oxidemethacrylate copolymer, 40%) from Clariant; Dow Coming 1401 (Highmolecular weight Dimethiconol, 13% in cyclomethicone); Eumulgin® L(PEG-1-PEG-9 lauryl glycol ether; Flexan® (Sodium polystyrenesulfonate);GAFQUAT® 755 N (Polyquaternium-11); Jaguar C-17/162 (guarhydroxylpropyltrimonium chloride) Laureth-4 (Lauryl alcoholtetraoxyethylen ether); Luviset® Clear (Terpolymer of vinylpyrrolidone,methacrylamide and vinylimidazole) from BASF; Luviskol® VA 64(vinylpyrrolidone/vinylacetate copolymer); Luviskol® K 90 Powder(vinylpyrrolidone); Luvimer® 100 P (t-butyl acrylate/ethylacrylate/methacrylic acid copolymer); Natrosol® G(hydroxyethylcellulose); Pemulen® (acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylatecrosspolymer); Structure® 3001 (acrylates/ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer,30% strength in water) from National Starch; Surfactant 193 (Ethoxylateddimethylpolysiloxane) from Dow Corning); Synthalen® W 2000(acrylates/palmeth-25 acrylate copolymer, 31% in water); Tego Betain L5045 (cocamidopropyl betaine).

Further compositions disclosed in the European patent application08151246.9 filed on 11 Feb. 2008 referenced as examples 2 to 7, 9 to 17,19 to 21, 23, 24, 26 to 35, 37, 39 to 45, and 46—which are incorporatedherewith by reference—are also suitable for use in the processesaccording to the present invention.

Appliances suitable for use in the processes according to the presentinvention Heat generating hair care appliances suitable for use in thepresent processes are any conventional appliances currently availableonto the market.

The dimensions and values disclosed herein are not to be understood asbeing strictly limited to the exact numerical values recited. Instead,unless otherwise specified, each such dimension is intended to mean boththe recited value and a functionally equivalent range surrounding thatvalue. For example, a dimension disclosed as “40 mm” is intended to mean“about 40 mm ”

What is claimed is:
 1. A process for reducing hair damage upon treatmentof hair by heat comprising the steps of: (1) providing a leave-in haircare composition comprising a silicone material and a cosmeticallyacceptable carrier, wherein the silicone material is apolydimethylsiloxane and is stable at a temperature up to 300° C.; (2)applying onto hair a sufficient amount of the hair care composition fortreating hair; (3) providing a heat generating hair care appliance beinga hot surface hair care appliance, wherein the hot surface hair careappliance is a hair dryer, a hot air hair styler, or a hair curler; (4)treating hair at a temperature ranging from about 90° C. to about 250°C. using the heat generating hair care appliance for from about 1 min toabout 20 min for drying and/or styling hair; wherein thepolydimethylsiloxane (P) has aminoalkyl groups and has an amine numberof at least 0.1 meq/g of polydimethylsiloxane (P), and comprises unitsof formula IR¹ _(a)R² _(b)SiO_((4-a-b)/2)  (I), in which R¹ is methyl, an —ORradical, or an —OH radical, R² are aminoalkyl radicals of formula II—R³—NR⁴R⁵ (II), R³ is —(CH₂)₃— R⁴ is H, R⁵ is —(CH₂)₂—NH₂—, a is 0, 1, 2or 3, b is 0, 1, 2 or 3, and a+b on average is from 1.5 to 2.5, whereinnot more than 9 mol % of the radical R¹ is OH or OR.
 2. The processaccording to claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises aprotonating agent.
 3. The process according to claim 1, wherein thecomposition further comprises at least one cosmetic hair treatment agentselected from the group consisting of hairstyling polymers,hair-conditioning agents, hair-cleaning agents, and mixtures thereof. 4.The process according to claim 1, further comprising the step of wettinghair with an aqueous composition before, during and/or after applyingthe hair care composition.